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Buggy Plans

Ok, so here they are, people are always asking for buggy plans on the forums, there seems to be very few out there, these plans for instance, were on the net for a while and then taken off, luckily I had saved them.

Note:- These plans are not made by me, and if the owner of these plans would like me to remove them, get in touch.

In the mean time, here you go buggy builders....get building

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Peter Lynn Classic Copy

The buggy.

The buggy looks a lot like the peter Lynn Classic

Materials & Tools:
1. 3x Wide buggy wheel from the kite shop (ready) or the pvc wheel of a barrow (needs some work to fit bearings) from the hardware store.
2. Rear-axle:1x 950 mm tube dia. 32x2 mm,2x 30 mm rod dia. 28 mm, full,2x Bolt M12 - 100 mm with spring-ring,2x 90 mm tube dia. 30x2 mm.
3. Balhead:1x 456 mm square-tube 32x32x2 mm,1x 75 mm rod dia. 37 mm, full,2x 20 mm rod dia. 16 mm, full,1x 55 mm tube dia. 20x4 mm.
4. Frame Tube's: 2x 780 mm tube dia. 25x1.5 mm,2x sheet 100x70x4 1x Bolt M8 - 55 mm with 1x M8 nut and spring-ring.
5. Front Fork: 1x 850 mm tube dia. 25x3 mm,1x sheet 220x25x4 mm,2x 37 mm tube 16x2 mm,2x 260 mm tube dia. 16x1.5 mm,1x Bolt M8 - 125 mm with 1x M8 nut,1x Bolt M12 - 180 mm with 2x spring-rings and 1x M12 nut.2x ballbearings 8x32x12. Stainless and seawater-resistent and sand-resistent !!!
6. Bending tool, Welding tool for stainless steel, powered polish tools.

Building
1. Rear-axle:I don't know if the tube-in-tube connector on the rear-axle is strong enough. Maybe it needs side-support on each side of the connectors. The tube-in-tube connection (foto) with the frame-tube has a 1 mm tolerance between the tubes.
2. Balhead (downtube):The square tube must be at least 2 mm thick. For many wheelies and Big Foot TIRES, 1.5 mm is to WEAK !!. The big X diameter, in the drawing, is the outside diameter of the ballbearing. Head and bearing MUST form a light press fitting.
3. Frame Tube (side frame) :The frame tube must slide easy into the connector of the rear-axle. Therefor the tube-in-tube connection with the rear-axle has a 1 mm tolerance between the tubes.The curve's in the bend-sequence-drawing are omitted. Only the staight tube sections are drawn.
So, remember first go straight .. mm then bend .. degrees. Then rotate .. degrees. See the drawing. The right-frametube is a mirror of the left-frametube. You can make it easy by reversing the bend sequence. Start at the end (3) of the bend sequence and work to the start (1). That is all. Rotations of the tube are OK. Test this with a thin pvc tube (electical) or some steel wire. Form the 4mm thick sheet into a U-shape. Weld the fitted 8M bold to one of the U-shape's (foto).
4. Front Fork: Weld the V-shaped centre part to the fork over the full 20 mm (4 times). Weld also the 8M nut to the V-shaped centre part. The 30 mm fork end's are flattened (squeezed together) tube end's (foto). The 2 pieces of tube (37x 16x2mm) are needed to keep the front wheel in the middle of the front fork.
5. The seat to fit the buggy.

Other Plans

Some Other Plans

Making A Buggy Seat

Ultimately we have to work a complete self-buggy seat angefertigt.Da all our buggies with this seat, and they are as robust and comfortable äuserst (lateral support) have proved, we come up with the idea that a construction manual seat (as well as possible) to publish.

Material list:

Agents, etc.:
- 3m ²; nylon backpack
- 1.5 sq meters; mattress (1 roll)
- 1.5 sq meters; Pape
- 1.5 sq meters; Füllfließ
- 3 rolls Nähgan per 100m extra strong
- 2 jeans or Ledernähnadeln

Straps:
- 3 straps per 70cm long and 2.5 cm wide,
- 1 strap 250cm in length and 2.5 cm wide,
- 1 belt 90cm long and 5cm wide,
- 1 belt 120cm long and 5cm wide,
- 1 belt 200cm long and 5cm wide,
- 2 harnesses 25cm long and 5cm wide,
- 2 harnesses 30cm long and 5cm wide,
- 2 harnesses 45cm long and 5cm wide

Total length of the strap and belts per 4.60 m.
(Harnesses man gets on a Autoverwertungshof)

Gurtschlößer:
- 3 pc. 25mm for belt
- 5 pc. 5cm for Anschnalgurt

Now go off, fits you best template from a sitting
Cardboard in your desired seat position on the stroller frame.

Carrying on your seat stencil with 2.5 cm measurements
each page on your nylon backpack

Now sews the upper belt (2.0 m) on the backrest fixed.
Zeichnt turn to the middle. Submit it now and will remain at about 4-5cm away from the upper corner. Remains 1cm from the back seat away form and stitched the pages with an X-seam.

Cuts out the substance, now draws you stencil on the seat.
(Original size without measurements)

Notes one strap 70cm and submit it twice on the seat. Directed it in a 90 ° angle to the front edge of seat. Submit it so that it in the corner between the side panel and the seat is located. 15cm-stitched with the seat belt and remains 1cm with the last seam of your typical seat away form.
(Sew the belt in addition to zig-zag or cross seams)

You again produces a piece of nylon backpack after you Pappschablone to.
You have to back 2.5 cm measurements counting.
ATTENTION The upper part and have exact übereistümmen !!!!!!!

Now we turn first to the seat Now we sew the two harnesses (25cm)
between the front and rear belt. That should Zwischenmaß depending on the buttocks size itself to be defined. For a Duchschnittsfahrer are about 13cm between the middle of the two belts. Sews the overlapping of belts equipped with an X-seam

You again produces a piece of nylon backpack after you Pappschablone to.
You have to back 2.5 cm measurements counting.
ATTENTION The upper part and have exact übereistümmen !!!!!!!

Now sew one belt 45 cm and 30cm as in the picture above. Remember when you sew again with your last 1cm seam of your seat typical form to stay away. This makes on both sides of the upper side.
(The exact position of belts you have to adjust your buggy.)

Since we are now about two parts to sew together, work out all the belts and fastened them with pins. This diehnt about her next step in both parts flawlessly can sew together.

Here's a picture after the two sides are ready sewn

So now go on together.
Sets both parts together so that all inside Belts are, as the seat sewed to be zuasammen left and so none should be sewn.
You stuck with the needles from the edge so that you can sew without which you both share slip.

Now sew the two parts 1cm away from the edge together. Sews quietly another two times at the seam along, but only on the side of Sitzaußenkannte.

Now turn to the right. Now sew the same section of the seat on your eingzeichneten lieni each other. Sets out the fabric so that the distance between seam and Sitzaußenkannte is half a centimeter

The applied ready tarp is now seam to seam, matching the seat bottom, festgenäht.
Remember all the harnesses inside and not be stitched. In addition, the rear knew not stitched, so the seat can still be filled.
Stitch cuts after the slots to perform the harnesses.

You cut a piece of canvas to fit under your seat part, on the left and right, and at the rear side 1cm measurements must be dispatched.
This serves to turn. On the front page, this is not necessary because the outer side of the plane later in lies below the hem.
Attends the plane after the turn EXACTLY to your seat at the Under stitching part must fit!

Take now the 25mm strap schnneidet you and one for your Sitzausenkannte suitable length. Now sews her the strap as Saumkante to Sitzausenkannte.
(See next step)

Now cut a piece of each mattress and a piece Füllfließ fit to fill the seat for seat, and both side parts.
Now fills those three chambers and then closes it. Sews best again twice over.
Attention stitch at the seat of the Chamber must be stitched with a tarpaulin

Now cut a piece of each mattress and a piece Füllfließ fit to fill the seat for seat, and both side parts.
Now, the back part on both outer sides sews. Doing this at the beginning of the pre-outdoor line.
The top can also be stitched up to about 20 cm to fill later serve

Now sew one belt 45 cm and 30cm as in the picture above. Remember when you sew again with your last 1cm seam of your seat typical form to stay away. This makes on both sides of the upper side.
(The exact position of belts you have to adjust your buggy.)

Now we turn first to the seat Now we sew the two harnesses (25cm)
between the front and rear belt. How should the seat after the date getahner work look.
This is the underside of the seat ready. I had to feature a small pocket at the back angenäht. Here, man himself something drop, or it can simply gone.

Carrying on your seat stencil with 2.5 cm measurements
each page on your nylon backpack

Now we turn first to the seat Now we sew the two harnesses (25cm)
between the front and rear belt. That should Zwischenmaß depending on the buttocks size itself to be defined. For a Duchschnittsfahrer are about 13cm between the middle of the two belts. Sew the overlapping of belts equipped with an X-seam.

Now fills the seat back as the previous chambers and then sews it. Now as far as everything is stitched, you can find the remaining edges lined

Now take the good piece, hang it in your buggy and adjusts the length of all the belts on the legs and the best seat position accordingly an.Vernäht your Schnallen.Nun nor can you ever wish hooks or rivets smash into the seat, so that the individual layers of fabric not slip against each other. This guide is for all shapes, colors and material variations suitable.

Now the side sections connected with the backrest. This fixed fit both the exterior lines of succession and sews some of these characteristics. Sets the remaining substance and stitched him two more times. Who wants this seam with 25mm webbing miss.

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Jul 30 2009 07:23 pm
Really good job. I actually came up with a similar design. I just used aluminum pipes, pipe benders and wheels that I bought from Harbor Freight. It is really not that hard!!! They charge way to much money for a simple design.

Garrett

May 25 2009 08:28 pm
absolutly top notch, realy realy helpful

mike

Mar 2 2009 10:36 am
Good work feller! Glad to find these - will be having a go myself but expect i will end up coming back to the master himself. Don't weaken! Chazzmeister

May 3 2008 07:58 am
Big Thanks from accross the pond in Buffalo, NY. Been looking for plans for a long time.... Nice work Dave

Oct 15 2007 02:00 pm
big BIG smile on my face now cheers Carl, Ive been after plans for the vmax front end for yonks,, nice one :-), just need to work out the angles for the swan neck now,, just made my day cheers again Carl....::UK_Sp00kY::....

Oct 15 2007 02:01 pm
Cheers Carl! Most helpfull.
B E N D E R

Apr 15 2007 09:13 am
No that plan is for a barrow wheel, for a midi wheel it needs to be 160mm internal and a bigfoot light 220mm a full bigfoot 270mm.....hope that helps

Carl

Apr 15 2007 09:10 am
Top man for posting these plans. Nice work too!

GR

Apr 15 2007 09:10 am
whoops meant the 5th picture , the plan of the fork

Apr 15 2007 09:10 am
hi , is the 4th picture from the bottom up a bigfoot fork plan?

thanks

Oct 31 2006 05:42 pm
Karl 14 year old looking for buggy friend intro website named gary rix

Piczo